Sanctuary of peace
Mariwan F Salihi
17 December 2010, Sulaimaniyah is a city few have ever heard of. The only time its name made it into global media headlines in the last few years was on two occasions: an accidental hotel fire in the summer of this year, and when some American hikers ‘mistakenly’ crossed the border to neighbouring Iran and were detained in the summer of 2009.
Both headlines were not very positive, knowing that northern Iraq’s Kurdistan region (which ‘Sully’ — a nickname given to Sulaimaniyah — is part of) is the only area in the conflict-ridden country where, officially, no foreigner has been kidnapped or killed in any attack. In fact, the Kurdistan region is as safe as any traditional tourist hotspot on this planet. Enough about bombs and politics.
To start with, Sully is probably the most ‘un-Iraqi’ of any city in the country. I am not only talking about the fact that there’s no violence or armed attacks in the area, or that its roads and public areas are cleaner than many European cities. Neither am I just talking about the Western influences in this city which is often regarded as ‘the Paris of Iraq.’ It’s not exactly Paris, but it’s also nothing like Baghdad, which is only 330 km to the south.
Strolling along some of the city’s wide, tree-lined boulevards is a good start to know Sulaimaniyah, which was built in the 18th century (most Iraqi cities are at least a few thousand years old). Salem Boulevard, the city’s main road, is a miniature version of Dubai’s Sheikh Zayed Road (there’s also a Burj Al Arab-envisaged hotel under construction, the Grand Millennium Sulaimaniyah). The boutiques and malls around this area offer some of Iraq’s best shopping options. Kaso Mall, located here, is Iraq’s first Chinese shopping centre. The café-culture is up-and-running in this sprawling metropolis, with Castello, a European café and restaurant, being the most popular. But more amusing is the touristy atmosphere around the neighbourhood of Sarchinar that’s dotted with clubs and restaurants (including Tour Eiffel), hotels, a zoo, an amusement park, a cinema-complex and a water park.
Although Sulaimaniyah is not a city that has a French-speaking populace, this Kurdish cultural capital is the only city in Iraq that annually celebrates the Fête de la Musique (World Music Day) and recently inaugurated its first French International School, named after the former French First Lady Danielle Mitterrand, who herself opened the school during a visit to the city last year. The majority of inhabitants are Muslims but the city is one of the most secular places in the Middle East, and the dress-code is very liberal.
Being Kurdistan’s cultural capital, Sulaimaniyah has many interesting sights that are easy to explore. Sulaimaniyah Museum is probably the only place that displays anything that is older than the city itself. Its interesting displays of many artefacts from the civilisations of Mesopotamia (the ancient name of Iraq) are worth the visit. To see some of the country’s modern history, the Amna Suraka (Red Security) is a place that reminds the visitor of the brutality of the former regime of Saddam Hussein. This former detention centre has been converted to a museum that showcases many examples of torture and brutality used against the people of this city by the former government.
But, by far the most interesting place in Iraq to understand more of the terrible legacy of Saddam Hussein is the city of Halabja (less than an hour’s drive from Sulaimaniyah). Halabja, an Iraqi-Kurdish city close to the Iranian border, was subjected to a chemical attack on March 16, 1988 (during the 1980-1988 Iraq-Iran War) by the Iraqi Army. The results: more than 5,000 innocent civilians were killed and around 7,000 were injured. In March 2010, the Iraqi High Criminal Court recognised the Halabja massacre as genocide. In memory of the victims, the Kurdistan Regional Government (which administers the Kurdish areas of northern Iraq) built a monument and a museum that has been visited by many locals and foreign diplomats. March 16 has become a national holiday in Iraq.
Sadness aside, the nature around Sulaimaniyah is some of the most amazing in the Middle East. Lush, green mountains, waterfalls, lakes and rivers are to be seen everywhere. Dokan Lake and Resort is one of the most beautiful in Iraq. The tourist town, only 70 km from downtown Sully, offers numerous kinds of entertainment, including several water sports. Dokan resembles a typical Alpine resort, something like the Swiss Lausanne or Montreux, but with a Kurdish character. In the winter, it’s a popular ski-resort. At Ahmad Awa, 70 km east of Sulaimaniyah, springs forming several waterfalls and surrounded by walnut, pomegranate and fig trees attract visitors to their cool shade.
The best time to visit Kurdistan is March when people celebrate Newroz, the Kurdish New Year marked by the spring equinox, by having picnics and dancing in the hills and valleys. In October and November, the weather is very pleasant and still warm enough to enjoy sightseeing. Expect snow during December, January and February.
If Iraq is a country that reminds you of horror, then think twice. Kurdistan Region deserves a chance to be seen and appreciated, as kidnappings and car-bombs are a world away from this upcoming tourist hotspot.
Sulaimaniyah Travel Info:Flights: flydubai connects Dubai to Sulaimaniyah direct, twice weekly. The flight time is around 2.15 hours.
Check www.flydubai.com or www.sul-airport.com for more info and flights.
Hotels: Sulaimani Palace Hotel (+964 (0)53 3134141 – 47), Lalezar Hotel (+964 (0)53 319 2601)
Currency: 1 UAE dirham = 316 Iraq Dinar (IQD)
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Tagged in: adventure tourism, Iraqi Kurdistan, Iraqi tourism, KRG, Kurdish culture, Kurdistan, Kurdistan Region of Iraq, Kurdistan tourism, Kurdistan travel, The Other Iraq, tourism
