Northern Iraq bets on tourism
By Brooke Anderson
ERBIL, Iraq: For most, Iraq might seem an odd place for a vacation. But that’s exactly the appeal for a handful of intrepid travelers, and the locals are looking to capitalize on this trend.
The country is still struggling with daily violence, minimal services and high unemployment. In mid-February, demonstrations in Sulaimani resulted in at least ten deaths and thus an increased security presence and the closure of nearby roads. Back in July 2009, three Americans hiking near the Iranian border were arrested and detained by Iranian authorities; two remain in custody.
Still, the relatively safe Kurdish region has become an appealing travel destination for adventurous travelers. “The thrill of going to Iraq and being an American brought me here,” said Jemil Jechen, who arrived in late February. Iraq has some of the world’s oldest archaeologial sites and some of the holiest sites in Islam, Christianity and Judaism.
A Californian who has traveled extensively throughout the Middle East, Jechan was originally going to spend two weeks in Egypt but due to a people’s revolution that caused the death of nearly 400 civilians he changed his mind. Then after reading about Northern Iraq on the internet and in travel guide books, he opted for the “safer alternative”.
Despite the north’s improved safety records, most Iraqis probably still are not used to seeing sightseeing ‘westerners’. An Iraqi passenger sharing a taxi with him was baffled upon seeing his American passport. When he saw his Arab name, Jemil, he wanted to learn more, so invited him to lunch, which Jechen gladly accepted. (Jechen’s grandfather is Lebanese.)
“I like the people. They’re very friendly and helpful,” said Jechen, an employee with Delta Airlines. But he warns the fussy traveler: “I think for most people who have never been to the Middle East, this would be a culture shock.”
Indeed, there are few comforts and amenities that most tourists are accustomed to: Cash machines are scarce, few places have internet connection and the streets are largely empty at night. On the other hand, the city’s newly constructed airport is as modern and efficient as any of its ‘western’ counterparts and street vendors sell mobile phone SIM cards everywhere.
«There are currently four 5-star and 33 4-star hotels, and 10 new luxury hotels under construction hotels in Iraqi Kurdistan»Iraq’s northern region has been seeing a steady increase in foreign visitors over the past several years – due to the relative safety of the region. Hoteliers are even willing on taking a risk on this almost-virgin market. In 2008, ‘western’ visitors to Northern Iraq totaled 39,000, and in 2009 that number jumped to 69,000.
There are currently four 5-star and 33 4-star hotels, and 10 new luxury hotels under construction hotels in Iraqi Kurdistan. But the Ministry of Tourism estimates that the number of “pure foreign tourists” – that is to say those who aren’t expats already living in the region – was less than a thousand last year.
“We’re still in the beginning, but we’re ready,” says Kanaan Baha Eddin, spokesman for the Ministry of Tourism.
Indeed, some tourism entrepreneurs are already getting ready to expand beyond the Kurdish region. Azzam Alwash, founder of Nature Iraq, an environmental NGO based in Sulaimani that takes visitors on rafting and hiking trips in the Kurdish region, plans on giving tours of the marchlands in the Basra area.
Similarly, Rebwar Daoud, who founded Babel Tours in 2009, has already begun giving tours in the Baghdad area. Last March, he brought a group of French tourists to Babylon. He also recently gave a private tour of the north for a screenwriter who works on the Simpsons animation series. Rebwar says he expects Iraq to soon appear in an episode of the popular animated series, as his client told him he likes to travel to get ideas for his writing.
Indeed, word is out that Northern Iraq is a good destination for the eccentric traveler.
The area is particularly appealing for backpackers who want an authentic experience that is off the beaten track. All the restaurants are local or regional, with most making fresh flat bread in-house; juice bars are plentiful on the streets of Erbil; and sweet shops selling Turkish delights are ubiquitous in the bazaar – the place to catch buses to the nearby villages.
One of the major attractions of Iraqi Kurdistan is its natural beauty, including the Zab River and the Zagros mountains. It is also situated in one of the greener areas of the Middle East.
“I like the fact that this place has maintained its authenticity,” says Shareef Kharouba, director of sales and marketing at the Rotana, Erbil’s poshest hotel to date, which opened its doors in February.
Caroline Topouzoglou, a student from University College London, visited Iraqi Kurdistan in April 2009, recalls fondly, “It was such beautiful country, the mountains and the long plains, without anyone… and the cities with amazing atmosphere, street art, vibrancy. I remember so strongly the greenery of Iraq and poppy fields.”
“I think it’s a place filled with amazing cultural things to see and do, and people who are of course, like all Arabs, very accommodating and generous. I don’t think it’s for everyone though, but curious people who don’t mind living a little bit day to day, sometimes without clean lodgings, backpacking, etcetera will enjoy it.”
Still, she adds “There is a little more risk involved than for example traveling to a country in Western Europe, especially if you have a language barrier, (who to trust, who to watch out for, making sure your driver is not going to drive you to Baghdad and sell you – jokes… there are too many checkpoints), but I think it’s not so dangerous.”
In fact, security is the key factor that will determine whether or not the area can manage to become a steady tourist destination. “In the Middle East, safety plays a big role,” says Ghassan Sallo, owner and manager of the Erbil Tower, a newly renovated 4-star hotel near the citadel. “Only if it’s safe and stable can tourism thrive.”
Copyrights 2011, The Daily Star – All Rights Reserved
14/04/2011
Tagged in: adventure tourism, adventure travel, Iraqi Kurdistan, Iraqi tourism, KRG, Kurdish culture, Kurdistan, Kurdistan Region of Iraq, Kurdistan Regional Government, Kurdistan tourism, Kurdistan travel, Middle East tourism, The Other Iraq, tourism
